Identifying Real vs Fake Antique Furniture Pieces

So, you've fallen in love with that gorgeous Victorian dresser at the flea market. It’s got curves, carvings, and what looks like decades of history. But hold up—could it be a cleverly crafted fake? As someone who's spent over 15 years restoring and authenticating antique furniture, I’ve seen more fakes than originals lately. Let me break down how to spot the real deal before you waste hundreds—or thousands.

Know Your Wood (and Glue)

Real antique furniture was made before mass production, so materials tell a story. Before the 1860s, most hardwoods like oak, walnut, and mahogany were hand-cut. Look for irregularities: uneven plank widths, slight warping, or wormholes. Modern replicas use uniform plywood or particleboard glued with synthetic adhesives. If you see staples or yellow PVA glue (the stuff you used in grade school), it’s not vintage.

Joinery Tells All

Handmade joinery is like a fingerprint. Real antiques feature dovetail joints cut by hand—slightly uneven but tight-fitting. After the 1940s, machines standardized them. Here’s a quick guide:

If the joints look too perfect? Red flag. Check drawer interiors—fakes often skimp there.

Nails & Screws: Tiny Time Machines

This is my go-to trick. Before 1830, nails were hand-forged—wavy, uneven, and hammered in. Between 1830 and 1880, cut nails appeared: rectangular, saw-cut, and uniform. Round wire nails? That’s post-1890. Screws follow a similar timeline: early screws have irregular threads and slots cut by hand. By the 1910s, they became machine-made and symmetrical.

Finish & Patina: Don’t Fall for “Distressing”

Fake makers love to “age” pieces with sandpaper, smoke, or coffee stains. Real patina develops slowly—darker in grooves, worn on edges from use. Flip over a drawer bottom or check under a drawer pull. If the wood underneath matches the surface color, it’s likely all new. Authentic wear shows contrast.

Hardware Hints

Original hardware (knobs, hinges, pulls) should match the era. A Queen Anne piece with shiny brass knobs from the 1980s? Nope. Research period-appropriate designs. Many reproductions use modern zinc-based hardware that feels light. Real antique brass or porcelain has weight and subtle imperfections.

When in Doubt, Measure Up

Old furniture often has non-standard dimensions. Pre-20th century carpenters didn’t use tape measures like we do. If every drawer is exactly 6 inches high, it’s probably not authentic.

Still unsure? Take a deep breath and head over to our antique identification checklist or explore our guide to vintage woodworking techniques. These tools have saved my clients thousands in misidentified buys.

Bottom line: trust your gut, but back it up with knowledge. Real antique furniture carries soul—not just style.